Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Israeli Architecture - past and present

The architecture of many of Israel's new buildings is ultra modern. The contrast with the ancient archeological sites is stark and at times hard to grasp, but as we witnessed at our very first location, the old and the new sit comfortably side by side, a symbol of the current State of Israel.

This was taken in the Old City of Jaffa, with Tel Aviv close by.

The Yad Vashem Holocaust museum is a example of modern Jerusalem. A bridge-like structure over the entrance has the verse from Ezekiel chapter 37, verse 14 ("I will put my breath into you and you shall live again, and I will set you upon your own soil...") in both English and Hebrew, carved into it.
I have been able to capture only a third of it in this photo...

The main museum is vast and built almost entirely underground. Its prism shape can be seen from inside and light enters through windows running the entire length of the top edge.

In the grounds there were many sculptures and symbols to the six million Jews who perished in the Holocaust of the Second World War. Here is just one of them.

The most moving memorial, as far as we were concerned, is dedicated to the 1.5 million children who died. This entrance leads to an underground room, with just 5 candles and hundreds of mirrors, creating 1.5 million images of the tiny flames. As you gaze at the lights the only sound you hear are the names, ages and country of birth of each child who died. The tape takes two months to play from start to finish, obviously only during museum opening hours.


In the old city the Jewish Quarter has been beautifully restored, with courtyards and patios, intermingled with ancient ruins.


Most of the streets are still narrow and arches have been rebuilt in places...




...and I loved the way this new wall has been built attached to the limestone bedrock, the modern apartments opposite complementing the street.








This blending of old and new is achieved because every building in Jerusalem, by law, has to be constructed or reconstructed using a limestone facing brick, so everything you see is the same colour.



Our tour took us through the playground an orthodox boys' school. I contrasted it with schools I used to work in. This playground was an open thoroughfare for the community, something which would not be allowed in UK, but the boys were playing with balls and diablos, chasing each other round, just like young boys anywhere. It was really interesting to see how they were dressed: casual shirts with black trousers, skull caps and prayer tassles hanging from their belts. The teacher on duty, standing in the archway of the imposing building, had a bushy beard, like many Orthodox Jews we saw.



Another interesting structure we saw was the construction taking place of the largest synagogue in the old city. However, I was surprised to see that an ancient Muslim minaret (tower) had been left standing nearby. The Jews will not destroy any holy site, even if is an offense to them.



Throughout the Jewish Quarter we saw many excavations and visited several of them. This is the remains of the Roman Cardo, the main street of the Roman-Byzantine city, called Aelia Capitolina, which was built about a hundred years after Jerusalem was destroyed in 70AD...





...and this is a section of the city wall in the time of King Hezekiah, built in the seventh century BC. Notice the thickness of the wall, wide enough for two way traffic (horse-drawn, or course!)

In total contrast, and to round off this little guide through Israeli architecture, a 21st Century building was spotted through the coach window on the last day on our journey down the coast - I've no idea where it is!

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